Cure Alzheimer's Fund: Targeting Breakthrough Research

Everest 2012 continues to surprise and meet expectations of many climbers. We have the first summits of 2012 on the South. The ropes are now fixed to the summit on the South and North side as the weather window holds. First Summits – Chile A very strong and experienced team from Chile summited before noon continue reading

As expected some teams and climbers have jumped the rope team and are on their way to the summit. 1st Summit Push, No ropes First the Chilean team left about 11 Pm on Thursday May 17 hoping to reach the summit in the early morning hours of May 18th. The entire team of 11 climbers continue reading

Update 1 Chilean team left South Col near Midnight May 17th to summit without fixed ropes. Would be first 2012 summits Update 2 Also Ueli Steck is on his way. He is climbing without supplemental oxygen. Best news of the season, no winds on Thursday May 17 allowing the rope fixers to set lines high continue reading

As we get closer to the predicted weather window, plans are taking shape, and some don’t like it. West Ridge Canceled As expected Conrad Anker has pulled the plug on the National Geographic sponsored climb of the West Ridge due to dangerous conditions. He will now join their South Col team. No word on the continue reading

The push is on with multiple teams reporting their initial moves to Camp 1 or 2 on the South or ABC on the North. All are looking at a weekend summit – weather depending. This is the first of at least two expected summit windows with the second around May 25; but this could quickly continue reading

The headline tells it all “MAY 14th – It’s time…”. Grant Rawlinson climbing on the north with Altitude Junkies posted today that he was moving to the high camps looking to attempt his Everest summit later this week. North Schedule Project Himalaya climber Tom Kowpak provided a clear description of the north side situation and targeting continue reading

The second week of May 2012 will be recorded in Everest history as when a commercial expedition approaching 100 people told their climbers to get off the mountain, we are going home. With disbelief, the other teams quickly learned that Everest legend Russell Brice’s canceled his entire spring expeditions on Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse including continue reading

Multiple reports this morning say the jetstream has returned with a vengeance on Everest shutting down the carries and rope fixing. This was expected and teams on both sides have made remarkable progress over the past week as the new snow made conditions safer and faster. The South Col is stocked for many teams and continue reading

If we were talking about sailing this would be called the doldrums, that time when there are no winds and the boat is basically adrift with the current. Our Everest climbers on both side are adrift at their camps passing each day just like the previous and the next waiting for those winds to move continue reading

Everest teams are spread all over the Khumbu and southern Tibet at the moment. A few are still at the high camps but most are holding at base camps or down in the villages enjoying the richer air. There are 10 Sherpas from multiple teams working together to fix the rope to the summit on continue reading

Let’s start with some encouraging news from Dave Hahn and Eric Simonson on the south side. There has been quite a bit of fresh snow over the past few days – so much so that it stopped some from climbing – go figure! South Plans Dave Hahn, climbing for RMI/Eddie Bauer/First Ascent made this post continue reading

As the dust settles from the Himex departure, all the other teams are working hard to complete their acclimatization programs, stock camps and plan for the summit. A Nod to History The new route up the Lhotse Face follows the track established in 1953,  Eric Simonson of IMG reminded us today. But more importantly the continue reading

In spite of the surprising news coming from Everest, climbers continue their march towards the top. There are reports of the fixed line now to Camp 4 on the South. Lhotse Ice While the wind and rock fall have dominated the news on climbing the Lhotse Face, one aspect has been under the radar – continue reading

Himex – update 2 Himex posted on May 7, 2012, the official announcement of their climbs cancellation today, Monday May 7.  Many other teams and climbers are talking about their pullout and report that the Himex Camp 2 is being taken down. The update mentions they are offering Camp 2 supplies to other teams to continue reading

This was the week Everest fell apart – literary and figuratively. With concerns over the lack of snow surfacing back in late March, it was not until the Sherpas, the tireless heroes of Everest, started to establish Camp 3 on the Lhotse face that the danger became real. Multiple injuries from rock fall caused the continue reading

The Everest season has officially split on the South side. Over on the North, they continue their effort to reach the North Col and tag 7500m. On both sides, eyes are glued to weather forecasts wondering where they will be when the winds return. South Split As I have covered over the past few days, continue reading

As Everest 2012 becomes more dangerous, the commercial expeditions leaders are being forced into making difficult decisions. At the root of the dilemma are extremely dry conditions and rock fall. Some teams have declared a ground hold,  others are retreating back down valley, some are holding at their current camps and yet others are pushing continue reading

The climbers are still holding at Camp 2 on the South and some are returning to base camp as the winds continue to pound Everest. Understandably individual climbers are not posting too much because 1) there is not a lot to report and 2) many are at Camp 2 without access to their communications gear. continue reading

For the first time in several years, teams are dealing with a lot of unknowns on Everest. There is a combination of confidence, determination and a bit of anxiety among the leaders who are now working together to provide safe passage for all the climbers. Both sides have their challenges but wind is the common continue reading

High winds have everyone in lock down on both sides. When the winds are above 30 mph, most teams will simply wait it out. Gusts of over 60mph are being reported from C2. A break is still forecasted starting tomorrow per most reports. However the route up the Lhoste Face has issues, more in a continue reading